Fields apart

Copyright Tan and Trev 2005

Fifteen miles away in Choeung Ek are the infamous Killing Fields.
It is here that those who survived the ordeal of S21 were taken for execution. This is where the actual genocide took place. Forced to kneel down at the edge of a pit, the prisoners were bludgeoned from behind and pushed in. Here 11-year-old boys literally executing their own parents with a blow of a shovel to the back of their heads, all for the "capitalist" crimes of speaking French, wearing glasses, or being a teacher.

Over 8985 corpses were exhumed here in 1980. Their skulls are now arranged in stacks (according to age and sex) in a small pagoda built in 1988 to commemorate the dead. The remaining 8000 corpses are left in situ here, amongst the rice paddies and water buffalo.

We walk into the pagoda to find the bones stacked 25 levels high.


Copyright Tan and Trev 2005

The remains were protected on three sides by a thick pane of glass, yet the stacks of skulls at eye-level were strangely open without a fourth containing pane. I watched a stream of people shuffle around the narrow passage and was surprised to find everyone resisting any urge to reach out and touch the bleached stacks. How refreshingly restrained.


Copyright Tan and Trev 2005
Even today nearly two decades after this appalling mass murder took place, pieces of clothing and bone still protrude from the ground. Pieces washed up in the rains, or kicked free by flat-footed tourists are periodically stacked in small piles around streets - to protected them from plodding pedestrians.


Copyright Tan and Trev 2005

Ever since seeing the film 'The Killing Fields' years back I've struggled with answering the difficult question of how on earth an entire nation could literally commit suicide. In Cambodia, there was no dominant ethnic group oppressing a minority, no country wiping out its neighbor in the name of nationalism. Instead, Khmers killed other Khmers, sons killed families, first over political struggle, then over social ideology, and finally over bloodlust and paranoia as ends in themselves. This small Asian nation exterminated as many as two million of its own brothers and sisters. Two out of seven Khmers starved or murdered in less than 45 months: April 17, 1975 to January, 1979.

Remembering days of this old school yard

A sizeable chunk of our time in Phnom Penh was spent finding out about Cambodian history, particularly the atrocities carried out by the Khmer Rouge during the violent coup of July 1997 and the ensuing civil war. We visited the chilling Toul Sleng torture centre, a former high school that was used by the Khmer Rouge as Prison S21 where many high ranking enemies were kept, along with normal Cambodians.

It was without a doubt the most horrible place on earth from 1975 to 1979.


Copyright Tan and Trev 2005

Within these walls, 17,000 prisoners, including entire families, were incarcerated, interrogated and tortured here, all for the soul purpose of extracting confessions from them before execution.

The intention of the Khmer Rouge under its leader Pol Pot was to turn Cambodia into a Maoist cooperative and its inhabitants into peasant farmers. During their diabolical reign which lasted from April 1975 until January 1979, around 2 million Cambodians are estimated to have been tortured and killed – that is twice the number of people today residing in Cambodia’ capital city, Phnom Penh.


Copyright Tan and Trev 2005

Now a genocide museum, S21 was the largest detention centre in the country. There were many examples of the torture that took place and rooms filled with mugshots of all of the captives. We walked round the cells with their rusty skeletal beds and bloodstains on the floor, the rooms and rooms of faded black and white photos of staring victims and the tiny, primitive brick cells with chains.

The KR kept meticulous records photographing each of the seventeen thousand prisoners detained here. Today row after row of these black and white photos adorn the walls of one of the buildings of S21. Not just men of military age, but young women some with babies, the elderly and children gaze down hauntingly at the visitor. Some of these victims had no idea what awful fate was to befall them. They are actually smiling! Others are under no illusions. In the photographs they appear stooped forward, the result of having their hands tied behind their back. Still others bear the marks of beatings.


Copyright Tan and Trev 2005

Of the 17,000 inmates who entered Tuol Sleng, only seven people - seven - are known to have survived. The rest of them either died inside or met their fate in the killing fields of Choeung Ek, just outside of town.

Where the streets have two names

No hiccups as we shuffled through Pochentong Airport, Phnom Penh. The service was efficient and queues orderly. Although there are no direct flights from the Australia, Phnom Penh is only 55 minutes by air from that much more frequented of tourist destinations, Bangkok.

Visa formalities for Cambodia are very simple. In contrast to neighbouring Vietnam and Laos, there is no need to waste half a day at an embassy before you head off. Simply pay US$20 and fill out some forms on arrival at Phnom Penh’s Pochentong International airport and hey presto, you’re in! Not even a photo is required. There is a spud-sized camera on each desk at Immigration. Staff there key details from your passport into computers, and grab a headshot while you wait.

There is a bustle for attention – a pinning for missed relatives and desperate clamour for flag-fare – a scene that seems mandatory worldwide outside all arrival gates. We push our way to one of three adjacent taxi desk, grab a voucher, and are then swiftly escorted to a cab.

With a mere $US7 we are at our first port of call in Cambodia, the Riverside Hotel at the corner of Preas Sisowath and Baksei Chamkrong streets (alternatively known as streets No. 1 and No. 94).

The method of christening each street with a name and number is a real boon for travellers. It makes navigation a breeze.

Now here's the plan

As a point for future reference, the trip's proposed itinerary from Intrepid Travel is included below. Consider it an exercise in project planning. Despite the best laid plans, circumstance will often push reality in unexpected ways.

The other reason for documenting the intended itinerary is to help us keep track as to "when" and "where" events actually occurred. It'll be a handy reference point for us in the coming months when posting photos and blog entries about our two weeks abroad.

Days 1-2: [Sat, Sun Jan 29, 30] Phnom Penh - You and your fellow travellers will be arriving at all times from around the world today [except we actually flew in the day prior], so there are no arranged activities. Your leader will organise a pre-trip meeting for the early evening. This will be followed by an optional group dinner. Look for a welcome note at reception in the joining point hotel explaining where to meet. For those who arrive early, there is sightseeing information on the Intrepid noticeboard in reception. Note that hotel check-in time is 12 noon. Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital city, is set on a major junction of the Mekong and Tonle Sap Rivers and boasts some fine examples of French-inspired architecture. We visit the chilling Toul Sleng torture centre and the 'killing fields' of Choeung Ek. We will also have free time to explore the Silver Pagoda, the Royal Palace, the bat-infested National Museum or the Russian Market. Sisowath Quay, along the riverside, boasts some beautiful old French architecture, a variety of cuisine and coffee shops and a great view of the bustling river and street traffic.

Days 3-4: [Mon Jan 31, Tue Feb 1] Kompong Cham / Kompong Thom - A short bus ride takes us to Kampong Cham (approx. 2 hours) where we overnight. We visit Wat Nokor, an 11th century Buddhist shrine, and there are riverside walks you can take to explore the area. Alternatively, relax down by the Mekong with a cold drink or watch the sunset from the new Japanese Friendship bridge. It's time to experience road travel as we catch a bus to Kampong Thom. On the way, we make a quick stop at the town of Skoun for an opportunity to sample the local delicacy of fried spiders. We then go on to Phom Suntok - a unique mountain temple full of carved reclining Buddhas - a mere 956 steps to the top but worth it for the great views over the surrounding countryside. Strung out along the banks of the Stung Sen river, Kampong Thom is a rather sleepy town. In the late afternoon we drive out to Sambor Prey Kok, a 7th century temple.

Days 5-7: [Wed, Thur Feb 2, 3] Angkor Wat - A long drive takes us to Siem Reap (approx. 5 hours), where according to group wishes, we may head straight out to the temples or perhaps take time out to explore this relaxed town. It's sunrise to sunset on day 6 as we make the most of our visit to the world famous Angkor complex with our local guide. These temples were built between the 9th and 13th centuries when the Khmer Empire was the pre-eminent influence in South-East Asia. They are believed to represent the cosmic world; set in perfect balance, symmetry and composition. Scattered over an area of some 160 sq km, the main cluster of temples is close to Siem Reap and we have plenty of time to explore the great archeological sites of Angkor Wat, the Bayon and the jungle-covered Ta Phrom. The intricately carved bas-reliefs and architecural design are mind blowing and there are spectacular photographic opportunities at sunrise.

Days 8-9: [Fri, Sat Feb 4, 5] Battambang - An early morning boat ride (approx 4-5 hours) takes us along the river to Battambang. Cambodia's second largest city is an attractive riverside town with traces of French elegance, friendly Khmer people and well preserved colonial architecture. There is time to explore the town and to enjoy the relaxed atmosphere. We take a trip to Phnom Sampeau where you can climb to the hilltop temple and see the remains of Khmer Rouge victims from a 'killing field' located in two caves. There are other Angkorian temples in the area that can be visited if you wish. (If water levels are too low, a bus will be used to Battambang).

Days 10-11: [Sun, Mon Feb 6, 7] Kampot - Leaving Battambang, we take a boat or bus (depending on weather conditions and season) where we transfer to a bus for the four hour drive to Kampot. The morning of day 10 we drive up to Bokor National Park (approx. 2 hours). If the season is right we can stop for a refreshing dip in the waterfalls. Bokor is an old French hill resort with a casino, was King Sihanouk's summer palace and offers some great views over Cambodia's southern coastline. We return to Kampot to spend the night and there is time to explore the town before we head off on day 12 to Sihanoukville.

Days 12-13: [Tue, Wed Feb 8, 9] Sihanoukville - Miles of untouched beaches and wonderfully friendly people await us in this new coastal resort, named for Cambodia's king. Weather permitting, we take a boat trip to one of the nearby islands where we are free to relax amongst swaying palms, white sands and blue waters. There is also plenty of time to explore the town, the market, the pagodas and the view from Sihanoukville's surrounding hills.

Days 14-15: [Thur, Fri Feb 10, 11] Phnom Penh - A bus ride returns us to Cambodia's capital city by mid day (approx. 4 hours), leaving the afternoon free for further exploration or maybe some last minute shopping. As no activities are planned for day 15 you may leave at any time.

Heart of Cambodia

Copyright Tan and Trev 2005

Shock, awe and inspiration. Our trip to Cambodia has touched us like no other trip.

The travel guide promised stunning architecture, powerful history, magnificent beaches and sleepy rural villages. In 16 days we sampled the diverse offerings of Phnom Penh, Kompong Cham, Angkor Wat, Battambang, and Sihanoukville.

The temples, remnants of French colonialism, palaces, pagodas, and with palm-fringed beaches are idyllic. The bomb craters interspersed among rural villages and rustic ruins are not - a horrible reminder of what human beings are capable of doing to each other.

There is enormous poverty - 70% of the population live without electricity, running water or sanitation. Health care is user-pays - if you can't afford it, you don't receive it. It's estimatedthat 50% of the population is infected with tuberculosis. The prevalence of HIV is high, and rising alarmingly.

The contrasts between the beauty of the people and landscape, and the stark realities of their history and current situation, make it difficult tosum up our experience of the country in a few words.

It has inspired us to begin this site in order to share the experience with family and friends. We hope our travel pictures and stories do justice in conveying some of the experience of travelling in Cambodia.